Blog

The souls of the ocean in Bali are leading my way into my pilgrimage

I woke up and it was raining so I decided to take the laptop and go to my everyday breakfast at Bali Bowls. While driving there which is just a couple of blocks from where I stay, I all the sudden realize I drove passed it, I was about to brake and make a u-turn but I got a gut-feeling that told me to continue straight to the beach even if it was raining. So I listened to my gut-feeling and continued to the beach which is just a couple of more blocks down the road.

I get there, just rain and bad waves. But I stayed and just looked at the ocean. Then a woman walks by with her dog following. The woman walks by but the little dog stopped and just looked at me. Didn’t come close and didn’t walk by, just stood still and looked at me. The woman turnes around and I told her that her dog didn’t want to move, she walks back and we start talking. She has moved here from Austria and has been living here for the last 3 years.

And this is when it get’s interesting.

I told her that I’m here feeling the waves and the ocean and their movement to learn, even if I’m not out on the water. And I told her how I think it’s important to feel your surfboard and feel the waves and the ocean to become a better surfer. As I believe there is a mental side to it, and to become a good surfer you need to have a mental connection to your board and the ocean on top of being a good athlete and fit.

She said, she totally understands it. Then she tells me that she teaches yoga and we started talking about how important it is for any sport or activity to be present and feel the soul of it.

Now I’m here eating breakfast at Bali Bowls and thinking, was it meant to happen? Was I supposed to drive to far and was it that my gut-feeling was supposed to tell me to go on and meet the woman and talk about the soul of the ocean and the souls of sports.

And what makes this even more interesting and emotional is that yesterday I was in the pool with my own board, just balancing and trying to feel the board and even if I might not be able to get up on it yet as it is small and I’m practicing on a big board, I have planned to take it out on the waves tomorrow for the first time, even just to paddle around on it.

As y’all remember tomorrow is the day when I will reveal the board graphic 21.1 and now I have all these encounters happening to me as 21.1 is closing in. For example, yesterday in the evening I was swiming around in the waves and the mount for my GoPro Hero6 broke and it dissapeared into the ocean. Was this meant to happen? As I had planned to mount it to the surfboard when I take it out for the first time, but when this happened it felt like the ocean and life was telling me, go out there without any cameras and just be present and feel the soul of the moment when you are taking the board out. Which is true, if I would take a camera with me I would not fully concentrate and be present in the moment as I would fiddle around with the camera. But now when I will go out without any cameras, just me, my board and the ocean, I will feel the moment, I will feel the soul of the ocean.

Feeling the soul of my surfboard - Blog - Screw Them All

What is the meaning of life?

Today I had lunch at a great burger place in Helsinki, Naughty BRGR, and talked with the waitress about my trip. I told her that she can follow it here on my blog. She then told me that she would love to follow my blog as it gives her a view of my life and my trip which helpes her to keep smiling whilie she is working TWO jobs to get by. She got my total respect and this kind of feedback inspires me to keep on going with my blog. Thank you for the feedback and a delicious burger! 🙂

I planned to write about my day, but her feedback inspired to write some thoughts about life itself, so here goes:

My trip is closing in on me like a storm, but instead of hiding from the storm I pull out my surfboard and ride the storm while it covers ground fast as lightning. The feeling of beeing able to ride the lightning is like freeing your mind and soul, I can feel the wind in my face while the storm carries me towards my dream.

There is always a way to see good in even a scary situation, most will just hide or run when a storm is coming, my idea is to stand in front of the storm, confront it and ride it out, this way you might end up living and finding the meaning of life.

What is life and what is the meaning of life? That’s the eternal question of mankind, we all ponder what is the true meaning of life? Does there have to be a true meaning of life? What about if we just take it back to basics and just feel the moment, really feel the sun on our skin, feel the wind in our face, really inhale the smell of the moment?
In my opionion we are not really living before we are able to to that and really feel everything to the last cell of our body.

How can we achieve this? The first thing to do is to be in the moment you are in at any given time, not rushing towards the future not worrying about the past, but just inhaling the moment with everything it has to offer, from feeling the ground under your feet to seeing the world around you.

This also applies while being with your friends, kids, pets. Put your cellphones away, stop doing something else, concentrate on being in the moment, really be there when your see your friends or play with your kids! Really be in the moment when your are throwing the ball to your dog.

I’m happy that you are reading my thoughts and my blog, but please, don’t let it take time away from your loved ones.

Just breathe and love life.

Baxtaff Ace of Base the Amstaff and meaning of life - Screw Them All - Blog