Day 3 or episode 3 of my daily videos is a clip about getting my first wave surfing. It happened the 9th time ever out with my board, and as some might have read it’s a 5’10 long board which is small and for a beginner very small. But I believed in myself and learned to surf with a small board, so it is possibly to start with a shortboard.
Everything on the video is shot on Bali and Wavepark Mentawai.
Almost a month into my trip and everyone have been asking where my secret island is. Well in 1 week I will be taking off from Bali towards the secret island and at the same time I will go off the grid the 16th of February, and when I say off the grid I mean OFF THE GRID, no internet, no social media, no mobliephone network, only link to the outer world from the island will be a satellite phone and I will spend a week and a half off the grid at: 1.8471° S, 99.3104° E
Before I headed for my pilgrimage, I had some things I wanted to achieve here on it. One of those things was to make my dream come true of surfing, which I have had ever since I was a little boy. I didn’t just want to be able to surf a big beginner board, I wanted to be able to surf my shortboard, a rather small board for a beginner, 5’10 in length, well I did it, the 9th time ever out surfing I caught an unbroken wave with my board, and for me, it wasn’t just making a dream come true, it was about riding The Big Fish, not only paddling out in the waves with it, but letting it guide me to connect with the waves and for me it felt like going home, it’s hard to describe it, but when you loose something you love more then anything it’s hard to really let go and for me everytime I take The Big Fish out on the waves, it’s just me, The Big Fish and the ocean, and everytime I go out there, it is hard for me even if I love doing it, because at the same time everytime I’m out there I let go of my past and just let The Big Fish take me home and live and to love life again, and even if there will always be pain in my heart, everytime I catch a wave I feel like just screaming out to the world, I am alive and I did it, I learned to love life again. I didn’t make it all by myself, I did it because I had people who where there for me when I was down and they stood by my side even if they knew that I might not be able to give back to them.
So going out on the waves is not only just letting go of an angel, it also reminds me everytime, of all the people who have helped me survive hell.
When travelling I always recommend going off the path. Why? Because that way you truly explore and experience the beauty of nature and other cultures and places. I went to see the famous Hindu pilgrimage temple Pura Tanah Lot, which is a very popular tourist attraction in Bali. When you get there you pay an admission fee to get into the area, which is ok I think, but when you walk from the maingate to the temple itself you have to walk through a purely selling anything you can to tourist market place, which I didn’t like that much. Well let’s not get into that, lets talk about going off the path.
It all started with getting there, I didn’t get a paid travel tour to the temple with guides and drivers, I just took the my motorbike, put some water and sunblock and my camera in my backpack and drove away without a hurry, stopping everytime I saw something nice and took pictures.
So once I get down to the temple, I took a couple of photos of the temple and a selfie with the temple in the background and here is where I made a choise of taking another path from most tourist. It seemes that for most tourists it’s enough to get some pictures of them posing in front of the temple, but for me, that’s not it, that won’t give me kicks or won’t make me smile. What I get kicks out of and what makes me smile is going exploring, so I went off the path. I saw a nice cliff further down the coast, but still close enough to be able to walk and climb there.
The path to the cliff was exciting as I stumbled on a crab colony, and litterally stumbled upon it as the crabs are very well camouflages withing the nature they are in, so at first I didn’t see any of the crabs, but all the sudden something jumped, yes jumped over my foot, first I got a startled as I didn’t see what it was, then I saw the crabs small and big. The smalles where around just 1 cm and the big ones where around 20 cm in size, and they can actually jump.
After going through the jumping crab colony, walking through water and climbing some rock I got to the place and the view was breathtaking. I’ll let the picture do the talking.
On my way back from the cliff I meet an old woman who was gathering seaweed for eating.
Now would you have seen amazing view from the cliff? The crazy jumping crab colony? Or meet a true local old lady gathering seaweed for food if I had stayed on the path like most tourist?
Go off the path, and like Captain Kirk from Star Trek said, boldly go where noman has gone before.
PLEASE READ AND STOP AND THINK FOR A MOMENT!
This is how we take care of our oceans and nature and it makes me sick! Even without seeing it, I know our oceans are filled of plastic which is killing our nature and it makes me sad and so angry. But when I see this beach with my own eyes it just makes me sick to my stomach.
One inspiration to me in saving the planet is Anna, who is my close friend and she is one of very few people I know who takes real responsibility in saving our planet. How I contribute in saving the planet myself is I do NOT throw trash on the ground.
As it might be overwhelming as there are so many different things you can do to make a difference in saving our planet and that is why it is easy to start simple, DON’T MESS WITH MOTHER EARTH, so next time you are about to throw trash on the ground, DON’T, just take it to a trashbin that has a recycle sign so that your trash will be recycled and there will come a day when our oceans will be clean again and our planet will breathe again.
Use #dontmesswithmotherearth when you post and join the fight.
Please SHARE this post and help spreading the word!
The Big Fish was planned to be on the first snowboard coming from the Alien Snowboards factory. But because of me struggling in life with the loss on an innocent angel, I was not able to get the Alien Snowboards factory going.
Years went by with me fighting through hell and after beating hell I planned to go on a pilgrimage to Bali. I wanted to make a dream come true that I had since I was a little boy, surfing, and at the same time just stop for the first time in 5 and a half years.
All started to go bad when we lost our little angel and nothing mattered to me anymore and my path through hell began. While fighting I got to points where with different kind of encounters meet me in my struggles. One thing that kept me going was that I kept the dream of Alien Snowboards alive, even if I knew in my heart that my own factory might never start production. But to me the dream was a thing that kept my hope of surviving hell. By accident through a friend I got to know a woman that is an amazing artist and designer. I asked her to draw a graphic for the first board that would come out of the Alien Snowboards factory. I told her my story and gave her total freedom to draw my story the way she thought would be good.
When I first saw the graphic I was speachless and tears ran down my checks as it was so beautiful, it told my story in a beatiful way and at the same time the drawing gave me hope and stregth to fight forward.
The snowboards with the graphic have never been made, but the graphic kept me going and gave me hope and now when I finally got through hell, I asked her if I could put the graphic on my custom surfboard for my pilgrimage to Bali.
Then I contacted Pinguino Surfboards and told them the short version of my story and they agreed to shape me the board.
Today when I woke up it was raining, it felt like the sky was crying and helping me let go. Even if I’m still a beginner in surfing and still learning and I’m not able to catch waves with my own board yet, I wanted to take it out, just to paddle around with it and let it connect with the waves and the ocean. I was out there for a moment that felt like eternity, I finally seized the moment. After getting back in I just sat on the beach for a while with the board by my side and felt the tears coming.
Our little angelchild is turning 5 years old today on 21. of January and is always with me and leading the way for me.
This is how Satu explained the symbolic story behind the graphic:
The koi fish that has white lillies and arum flowers (both flowers symbolize death) wrapped around it’s tail symbolising the chains of the past. The fish has gotten away from the chains with the help of the birds cutting them. The little feather of an angel carried by the little bird coming out the flower is guiding the fish towards hope and showing that it is possible to brake free from the chains of the past and at the same time guiding the fish towards hope. The fish symbolizes a flow or curent, traveling, fearlessnes and the fish is also able to swim against a strong current, and when you just let go and ride The BIg Fish you will go far.
Thank and all the love to you Satu, for drawing it and giving me hope.
And a thank you with love to Pinguino Surfboards for making hope that Satu drew a reality.
Meet The Big Fish
I woke up and it was raining so I decided to take the laptop and go to my everyday breakfast at Bali Bowls. While driving there which is just a couple of blocks from where I stay, I all the sudden realize I drove passed it, I was about to brake and make a u-turn but I got a gut-feeling that told me to continue straight to the beach even if it was raining. So I listened to my gut-feeling and continued to the beach which is just a couple of more blocks down the road.
I get there, just rain and bad waves. But I stayed and just looked at the ocean. Then a woman walks by with her dog following. The woman walks by but the little dog stopped and just looked at me. Didn’t come close and didn’t walk by, just stood still and looked at me. The woman turnes around and I told her that her dog didn’t want to move, she walks back and we start talking. She has moved here from Austria and has been living here for the last 3 years.
And this is when it get’s interesting.
I told her that I’m here feeling the waves and the ocean and their movement to learn, even if I’m not out on the water. And I told her how I think it’s important to feel your surfboard and feel the waves and the ocean to become a better surfer. As I believe there is a mental side to it, and to become a good surfer you need to have a mental connection to your board and the ocean on top of being a good athlete and fit.
She said, she totally understands it. Then she tells me that she teaches yoga and we started talking about how important it is for any sport or activity to be present and feel the soul of it.
Now I’m here eating breakfast at Bali Bowls and thinking, was it meant to happen? Was I supposed to drive to far and was it that my gut-feeling was supposed to tell me to go on and meet the woman and talk about the soul of the ocean and the souls of sports.
And what makes this even more interesting and emotional is that yesterday I was in the pool with my own board, just balancing and trying to feel the board and even if I might not be able to get up on it yet as it is small and I’m practicing on a big board, I have planned to take it out on the waves tomorrow for the first time, even just to paddle around on it.
As y’all remember tomorrow is the day when I will reveal the board graphic 21.1 and now I have all these encounters happening to me as 21.1 is closing in. For example, yesterday in the evening I was swiming around in the waves and the mount for my GoPro Hero6 broke and it dissapeared into the ocean. Was this meant to happen? As I had planned to mount it to the surfboard when I take it out for the first time, but when this happened it felt like the ocean and life was telling me, go out there without any cameras and just be present and feel the soul of the moment when you are taking the board out. Which is true, if I would take a camera with me I would not fully concentrate and be present in the moment as I would fiddle around with the camera. But now when I will go out without any cameras, just me, my board and the ocean, I will feel the moment, I will feel the soul of the ocean.
Today I had lunch at a great burger place in Helsinki, Naughty BRGR, and talked with the waitress about my trip. I told her that she can follow it here on my blog. She then told me that she would love to follow my blog as it gives her a view of my life and my trip which helpes her to keep smiling whilie she is working TWO jobs to get by. She got my total respect and this kind of feedback inspires me to keep on going with my blog. Thank you for the feedback and a delicious burger! 🙂
I planned to write about my day, but her feedback inspired to write some thoughts about life itself, so here goes:
My trip is closing in on me like a storm, but instead of hiding from the storm I pull out my surfboard and ride the storm while it covers ground fast as lightning. The feeling of beeing able to ride the lightning is like freeing your mind and soul, I can feel the wind in my face while the storm carries me towards my dream.
There is always a way to see good in even a scary situation, most will just hide or run when a storm is coming, my idea is to stand in front of the storm, confront it and ride it out, this way you might end up living and finding the meaning of life.
What is life and what is the meaning of life? That’s the eternal question of mankind, we all ponder what is the true meaning of life? Does there have to be a true meaning of life? What about if we just take it back to basics and just feel the moment, really feel the sun on our skin, feel the wind in our face, really inhale the smell of the moment?
In my opionion we are not really living before we are able to to that and really feel everything to the last cell of our body.
How can we achieve this? The first thing to do is to be in the moment you are in at any given time, not rushing towards the future not worrying about the past, but just inhaling the moment with everything it has to offer, from feeling the ground under your feet to seeing the world around you.
This also applies while being with your friends, kids, pets. Put your cellphones away, stop doing something else, concentrate on being in the moment, really be there when your see your friends or play with your kids! Really be in the moment when your are throwing the ball to your dog.
I’m happy that you are reading my thoughts and my blog, but please, don’t let it take time away from your loved ones.
Just breathe and love life.