Day 3 or episode 3 of my daily videos is a clip about getting my first wave surfing. It happened the 9th time ever out with my board, and as some might have read it’s a 5’10 long board which is small and for a beginner very small. But I believed in myself and learned to surf with a small board, so it is possibly to start with a shortboard.
Everything on the video is shot on Bali and Wavepark Mentawai.
Almost a month into my trip and everyone have been asking where my secret island is. Well in 1 week I will be taking off from Bali towards the secret island and at the same time I will go off the grid the 16th of February, and when I say off the grid I mean OFF THE GRID, no internet, no social media, no mobliephone network, only link to the outer world from the island will be a satellite phone and I will spend a week and a half off the grid at: 1.8471° S, 99.3104° E
Before I headed for my pilgrimage, I had some things I wanted to achieve here on it. One of those things was to make my dream come true of surfing, which I have had ever since I was a little boy. I didn’t just want to be able to surf a big beginner board, I wanted to be able to surf my shortboard, a rather small board for a beginner, 5’10 in length, well I did it, the 9th time ever out surfing I caught an unbroken wave with my board, and for me, it wasn’t just making a dream come true, it was about riding The Big Fish, not only paddling out in the waves with it, but letting it guide me to connect with the waves and for me it felt like going home, it’s hard to describe it, but when you loose something you love more then anything it’s hard to really let go and for me everytime I take The Big Fish out on the waves, it’s just me, The Big Fish and the ocean, and everytime I go out there, it is hard for me even if I love doing it, because at the same time everytime I’m out there I let go of my past and just let The Big Fish take me home and live and to love life again, and even if there will always be pain in my heart, everytime I catch a wave I feel like just screaming out to the world, I am alive and I did it, I learned to love life again. I didn’t make it all by myself, I did it because I had people who where there for me when I was down and they stood by my side even if they knew that I might not be able to give back to them.
So going out on the waves is not only just letting go of an angel, it also reminds me everytime, of all the people who have helped me survive hell.
My checklist for my surfing trip and pilgrimage to Bali is starting to look very good!
1. I’m so happy that the place were my dog Ace is staying while I’m on my trip is like a second home for him, he can be a rascal and run around at the house while the family take care of him and gives him lots of love.
2. The location in Bali is an AirBnB place which I found, lovely couple who even have 2 dogs which will help me a lot when I’m away from my own dog. The place is called Luxry River Room #2 Canggu. I will do a more in depth introduction of the place when I get there.
The second place, the mystery island, I’ll still keep it a secret but what I can say it is in Indonesia and it’s west from Bali. The island is small, about 2 km in diameter and has lots of surf breaks close by. The island is a part of some bigger islands but this particlar island is like having your private island in paradise, no crowded tourist beaches, no hassle, just relaxation, waves, surfing, good food and sun. Just as the place in Bali, I’ll will make tour of the island when I get there. For now here are 2 more shots from the island.
3. Got the plane tickets ready and now I just have to wait for my departure day!
4. I have been getting back in shape and starting to feel good. A little bit tired as my body have gotten some tough workouts, so for this last week I will just play around and balance with my Indo Board and do one or two easier workouts at the gym and just REST!
5. I still need to get some kind of a selfie-stick for recording my videos and some floatation thingies for my GoPro so that I won’t have to dive it from the bottom of the ocean, as I have once done when the handle broke while doing a flip into the ocean from a pier a couple of years ago. And tomorrow I’m fixin’ to go get the bag for my surfboard.
6. My surfboard, The surfboard, which the Pinguino Surfboard dudes custom made for me is on it’s way to me. I can’t wait as the board will have a graphic on it which basically tells the story of the hell I went throught and survived, drawn by a good friend of my who is crazy talented. I will give you some sneak peeks of the board when I get it, but you will have to wait for the reveal, which I will do the 21st January from Bali.
Now just need to get some rest and some quality time with my buddy Ace who is helping me write this post as you can see :
- Get a good place for my dog to stay while I’m a way – check
- Get a good location and place to stay for my adventure – check
- Get airplane tickets – check
- Get physically ready for some waves – check
- Get all the gear ready – work in progress
- Get my own surfboard – check (waiting for delivery)
Also check out my video about starting surfing with a shortboard: