To start surfing with a 5’10 shortboard is not easy, and if you look at it, starting surfing with any kind of board is not easy. Of course it all comes down to your background and ability to learn new things.
What made it easier for me is that I have boardsports background, snowboarding, skateboarding, kiteboarding, wakeboarding and some windsurfing. This means I have the balance and understanding in going sideways on a board.
After getting to Bali, Indonesia I took it easy for a day or two and then I took 2 lessons, just to have someone to see if I’m doing the basics right.
For day 1 of surfing I had a medium size softboard on the first lesson and I caught 5 out of 10 waves and one all the way in to the beach. And even if I was out for the first time, we went out into the real waves, not the beach whitewater where most people start.
So now I had some feeling and had some basic touch for being out on the waves on a board so for day 2 I had two sets of learning to surf. Around noon I went out alone and took my own custom surfboard by Pinguino Surfboards, out for a spin, I got up for just a second or two while paddling back to the beach, you can read about the first time out of my board and connecting to the souls of the sea here.
Later the same day I got me second lesson again with the medium size softboard to practice some more and again I caught most waves with the bigger board.
So now I had the basics down, had been out paddling with my own short board and it was time to start practicing.
For practice I chose a more challenging spot, Berawa Beach, which has only beach breaks and every wave break in a different spot and on top of that, the spot does not really have a channel to paddle out so even if I knew it would be tough even just to paddle out I wanted to do it this way so that I would learn to paddle and duckdive in more difficult situations which I knew would help me down the road.
Day 3, 4 was mainly fighting against the waves and trying to paddle out through breaking waves.
Day 5 I had big progress, I finally got through the breaking waves and was out for the first time waiting for some unbroken waves with my own board. Caught one but could not get up properly so I surfed the wave with my back foot in it’s place and my arms keeping me up where my front foot should have been and my front foot was just riding along.
Day 6 I had more progress, still getting out through the breaking waves without a channel was tough and on 2 first sets the waves were just throwing me all over the place and I sat on the beach for a while after getting back out for the third set, I got out, totally dead. Caught an unbroken wave but could not get up so I just bodyboarded all the way in.
Next step was to practice duckdiving both in the pool and through the rough breaking waves on Berawa Beach and more paddle and balance practice in the waves. This was what I did for day 7 and 8.
Then, sometimes you just know, even before you get out that it’s going to be a great surfing session. I had just gotten back from my adventure, Boldy go where noman has gone before. When I got back to my AirBnB place Villa Sungai (I will write more about this amazing place later), the owners where just about to go to the beach and said the wind was going down so the waves would be great. I said that I would just get my board and hit the beach.
When I got to the beach I just somehow felt good. I paddled out which was the easiest paddle through the waves so far, somehow everything just clicked. Then I saw a wave coming, which looked good, I tried to get it but it wasn’t big enough and I just kinda let it go, but then it happened.
It’s funny how I just felt it, even if everything happened really fast, the wave that was coming just felt good. I don’t know why or I can’t explain how I just knew it. I turned, started to paddle and just let go of everything and went with the flow of the ocean and just let it take me wherever it wanted me to go without fighting against it. In that moment I felt like I had connected with the soul of the ocean and my gut instinct told me to just take a couple of paddles and get up and I did.
I was up, I was surfing. I can still feel the moment and the feeling when I just let go of everything and the emotion that got out. I didn’t surf all the way with the wave, for that time it was enough to just connect with the soul of the ocean.
I paddled back out, I didn’t even try to catch anymore waves, I just sat there on my board and felt tears coming. That moment, I had done it, I had let the Big Fish take me on a journey that was just beginning.
It took me 9 days to catch a wave with my own board. You can read all about why this journey was and still is important to me in my earlier text, the Big Fish and the moment of eternity, and you will understand more why learning to surf has so much emotion in it for me.
Thank you for reading and I hope I have inspired you with my stories and I hope you come back again for more inspiring stories from Indonesia and my life.
Day 3 or episode 3 of my daily videos is a clip about getting my first wave surfing. It happened the 9th time ever out with my board, and as some might have read it’s a 5’10 long board which is small and for a beginner very small. But I believed in myself and learned to surf with a small board, so it is possibly to start with a shortboard.
Everything on the video is shot on Bali and Wavepark Mentawai.
Here is the first part of my surf adventure to Indonesia, starting with the experience of flying with Qatar Airways. I waited to start writing about my adventure untill I got home, because I wanted to enjoy my trip and not spend time on my computer over there.
It all starts 14.1 in the evening.
Now on the plane on my way to Doha in Qatar from where I will continue to Bali. I have not flown with Qatar Airways before, but the experience seems to be a lot better than average.
And the great and friendly started even before getting on the plane. I was walking in the Helsinki international terminal to the check-in and saw crowd of people in front of the counters, first I was “this is going to take forever”, but it wasn’t the Qatar Airways counters, it was some other airline, and just bye it there were a couple of almost empty counters, not business or first class, but the economy class check-in counters for Qatar Airways. So they made me feel like a king even before getting on the airplane! Thank you!
Before boarding I talked with the pilots, so profesional and also so nice and friendly. We chatted about Bali and started to exchange good Beach Club spots in Bali with the other pilot who was a woman.
I also talked with a very inspiring older woman on here way to Nepal to do some work to help local people. A very nice lady, and just before getting on the plane she said, thank you for the chat, you just inspired me.
This is one big reason why I have my blog, to be able to inspire people, but also, people inspire me, so I think it’s a win-win deal with people inspiring me and I am able to inspire them at the same time.
Then getting on the plane to my seat I talked with the flight stuardess about my blog and instantly got a fan for my blog.
After take-off, they started to hand out a paper for people on the plane, I was wondering what it is. Didn’t have to wonder for long as I got the paper myself too, it was a very nice looking menu for food. A menu, with beverages and food in the economy class? whaat? Yes, a menu, I couldn’t believe it as I have flown a lot in my life, so getting a real menu in the economy class is extraordinary.
Now a dinner break, which I will write more about soon.
Dinner break turned into a 24 hour break as I put my laptop away and just enjoyed the flight and trip to Bali
Had so much stuff to do and adventuring here in Bali so I never finnished the story of getting here to Bali with Qatar Airways. So here goes, the end part of it and back to eating on the plane.
So I picked the chicken from the menu which was tasty in itself, but some small details I want to point out. First of all, the cabincrew treated me like I was in a restaurant and so polite, so sweet and respectful. Then instead of the plain old plastic knife and fork to eat with, the knife, fork and spoon were metal, felt like luxury silverware compared to regular plastic ones usually on flights. And on top of it all they had a small Qatar Airways logo ingraved on them. So all together, tasty food and an amazing service.
After sleeping for a while we started to close in to Doha, Qatar, where I had a quick stop of about an hour before getting onto my next flight. Ofcourse we had to take a group pic with the cabincrew of Qatar Airways flight QR308.
Also getting into Doha we had a thick fog but no clouds so it looked like the we were flying into the cloud city from the old Star Wars movie, The Last Jedi.
Finding my way around Doha airport in Qatar was easy. Good and easily readable signs, so a really good airport to have a short stop.
And on to the next flight, again I had a window seat and I was lucky to have an empty seat by me so got some sleep. And again, the flight crew of Qatar Airways flight QR960 were so friendly, helpful and respectful towards me. The second flight was a little longer and I got some good sleep. Again just had to get group pics with the flight QR960 crew, this time we had a bigger crew as the plane was bigger too.
Qatar Airways, please pass on a thank you to the cabin crew of the flights:
QR308 (Jan. 14-15) and QR360 (Jan. 15) from me ❤
Almost a month into my trip and everyone have been asking where my secret island is. Well in 1 week I will be taking off from Bali towards the secret island and at the same time I will go off the grid the 16th of February, and when I say off the grid I mean OFF THE GRID, no internet, no social media, no mobliephone network, only link to the outer world from the island will be a satellite phone and I will spend a week and a half off the grid at: 1.8471° S, 99.3104° E
Before I headed for my pilgrimage, I had some things I wanted to achieve here on it. One of those things was to make my dream come true of surfing, which I have had ever since I was a little boy. I didn’t just want to be able to surf a big beginner board, I wanted to be able to surf my shortboard, a rather small board for a beginner, 5’10 in length, well I did it, the 9th time ever out surfing I caught an unbroken wave with my board, and for me, it wasn’t just making a dream come true, it was about riding The Big Fish, not only paddling out in the waves with it, but letting it guide me to connect with the waves and for me it felt like going home, it’s hard to describe it, but when you loose something you love more then anything it’s hard to really let go and for me everytime I take The Big Fish out on the waves, it’s just me, The Big Fish and the ocean, and everytime I go out there, it is hard for me even if I love doing it, because at the same time everytime I’m out there I let go of my past and just let The Big Fish take me home and live and to love life again, and even if there will always be pain in my heart, everytime I catch a wave I feel like just screaming out to the world, I am alive and I did it, I learned to love life again. I didn’t make it all by myself, I did it because I had people who where there for me when I was down and they stood by my side even if they knew that I might not be able to give back to them.
So going out on the waves is not only just letting go of an angel, it also reminds me everytime, of all the people who have helped me survive hell.
When travelling I always recommend going off the path. Why? Because that way you truly explore and experience the beauty of nature and other cultures and places. I went to see the famous Hindu pilgrimage temple Pura Tanah Lot, which is a very popular tourist attraction in Bali. When you get there you pay an admission fee to get into the area, which is ok I think, but when you walk from the maingate to the temple itself you have to walk through a purely selling anything you can to tourist market place, which I didn’t like that much. Well let’s not get into that, lets talk about going off the path.
It all started with getting there, I didn’t get a paid travel tour to the temple with guides and drivers, I just took the my motorbike, put some water and sunblock and my camera in my backpack and drove away without a hurry, stopping everytime I saw something nice and took pictures.
So once I get down to the temple, I took a couple of photos of the temple and a selfie with the temple in the background and here is where I made a choise of taking another path from most tourist. It seemes that for most tourists it’s enough to get some pictures of them posing in front of the temple, but for me, that’s not it, that won’t give me kicks or won’t make me smile. What I get kicks out of and what makes me smile is going exploring, so I went off the path. I saw a nice cliff further down the coast, but still close enough to be able to walk and climb there.
The path to the cliff was exciting as I stumbled on a crab colony, and litterally stumbled upon it as the crabs are very well camouflages withing the nature they are in, so at first I didn’t see any of the crabs, but all the sudden something jumped, yes jumped over my foot, first I got a startled as I didn’t see what it was, then I saw the crabs small and big. The smalles where around just 1 cm and the big ones where around 20 cm in size, and they can actually jump.
After going through the jumping crab colony, walking through water and climbing some rock I got to the place and the view was breathtaking. I’ll let the picture do the talking.
On my way back from the cliff I meet an old woman who was gathering seaweed for eating.
Now would you have seen amazing view from the cliff? The crazy jumping crab colony? Or meet a true local old lady gathering seaweed for food if I had stayed on the path like most tourist?
Go off the path, and like Captain Kirk from Star Trek said, boldly go where noman has gone before.
PLEASE READ AND STOP AND THINK FOR A MOMENT!
This is how we take care of our oceans and nature and it makes me sick! Even without seeing it, I know our oceans are filled of plastic which is killing our nature and it makes me sad and so angry. But when I see this beach with my own eyes it just makes me sick to my stomach.
One inspiration to me in saving the planet is Anna, who is my close friend and she is one of very few people I know who takes real responsibility in saving our planet. How I contribute in saving the planet myself is I do NOT throw trash on the ground.
As it might be overwhelming as there are so many different things you can do to make a difference in saving our planet and that is why it is easy to start simple, DON’T MESS WITH MOTHER EARTH, so next time you are about to throw trash on the ground, DON’T, just take it to a trashbin that has a recycle sign so that your trash will be recycled and there will come a day when our oceans will be clean again and our planet will breathe again.
Use #dontmesswithmotherearth when you post and join the fight.
Please SHARE this post and help spreading the word!
The Big Fish was planned to be on the first snowboard coming from the Alien Snowboards factory. But because of me struggling in life with the loss on an innocent angel, I was not able to get the Alien Snowboards factory going.
Years went by with me fighting through hell and after beating hell I planned to go on a pilgrimage to Bali. I wanted to make a dream come true that I had since I was a little boy, surfing, and at the same time just stop for the first time in 5 and a half years.
All started to go bad when we lost our little angel and nothing mattered to me anymore and my path through hell began. While fighting I got to points where with different kind of encounters meet me in my struggles. One thing that kept me going was that I kept the dream of Alien Snowboards alive, even if I knew in my heart that my own factory might never start production. But to me the dream was a thing that kept my hope of surviving hell. By accident through a friend I got to know a woman that is an amazing artist and designer. I asked her to draw a graphic for the first board that would come out of the Alien Snowboards factory. I told her my story and gave her total freedom to draw my story the way she thought would be good.
When I first saw the graphic I was speachless and tears ran down my checks as it was so beautiful, it told my story in a beatiful way and at the same time the drawing gave me hope and stregth to fight forward.
The snowboards with the graphic have never been made, but the graphic kept me going and gave me hope and now when I finally got through hell, I asked her if I could put the graphic on my custom surfboard for my pilgrimage to Bali.
Then I contacted Pinguino Surfboards and told them the short version of my story and they agreed to shape me the board.
Today when I woke up it was raining, it felt like the sky was crying and helping me let go. Even if I’m still a beginner in surfing and still learning and I’m not able to catch waves with my own board yet, I wanted to take it out, just to paddle around with it and let it connect with the waves and the ocean. I was out there for a moment that felt like eternity, I finally seized the moment. After getting back in I just sat on the beach for a while with the board by my side and felt the tears coming.
Our little angelchild is turning 5 years old today on 21. of January and is always with me and leading the way for me.
This is how Satu explained the symbolic story behind the graphic:
The koi fish that has white lillies and arum flowers (both flowers symbolize death) wrapped around it’s tail symbolising the chains of the past. The fish has gotten away from the chains with the help of the birds cutting them. The little feather of an angel carried by the little bird coming out the flower is guiding the fish towards hope and showing that it is possible to brake free from the chains of the past and at the same time guiding the fish towards hope. The fish symbolizes a flow or curent, traveling, fearlessnes and the fish is also able to swim against a strong current, and when you just let go and ride The BIg Fish you will go far.
Thank and all the love to you Satu, for drawing it and giving me hope.
And a thank you with love to Pinguino Surfboards for making hope that Satu drew a reality.
Meet The Big Fish
I woke up and it was raining so I decided to take the laptop and go to my everyday breakfast at Bali Bowls. While driving there which is just a couple of blocks from where I stay, I all the sudden realize I drove passed it, I was about to brake and make a u-turn but I got a gut-feeling that told me to continue straight to the beach even if it was raining. So I listened to my gut-feeling and continued to the beach which is just a couple of more blocks down the road.
I get there, just rain and bad waves. But I stayed and just looked at the ocean. Then a woman walks by with her dog following. The woman walks by but the little dog stopped and just looked at me. Didn’t come close and didn’t walk by, just stood still and looked at me. The woman turnes around and I told her that her dog didn’t want to move, she walks back and we start talking. She has moved here from Austria and has been living here for the last 3 years.
And this is when it get’s interesting.
I told her that I’m here feeling the waves and the ocean and their movement to learn, even if I’m not out on the water. And I told her how I think it’s important to feel your surfboard and feel the waves and the ocean to become a better surfer. As I believe there is a mental side to it, and to become a good surfer you need to have a mental connection to your board and the ocean on top of being a good athlete and fit.
She said, she totally understands it. Then she tells me that she teaches yoga and we started talking about how important it is for any sport or activity to be present and feel the soul of it.
Now I’m here eating breakfast at Bali Bowls and thinking, was it meant to happen? Was I supposed to drive to far and was it that my gut-feeling was supposed to tell me to go on and meet the woman and talk about the soul of the ocean and the souls of sports.
And what makes this even more interesting and emotional is that yesterday I was in the pool with my own board, just balancing and trying to feel the board and even if I might not be able to get up on it yet as it is small and I’m practicing on a big board, I have planned to take it out on the waves tomorrow for the first time, even just to paddle around on it.
As y’all remember tomorrow is the day when I will reveal the board graphic 21.1 and now I have all these encounters happening to me as 21.1 is closing in. For example, yesterday in the evening I was swiming around in the waves and the mount for my GoPro Hero6 broke and it dissapeared into the ocean. Was this meant to happen? As I had planned to mount it to the surfboard when I take it out for the first time, but when this happened it felt like the ocean and life was telling me, go out there without any cameras and just be present and feel the soul of the moment when you are taking the board out. Which is true, if I would take a camera with me I would not fully concentrate and be present in the moment as I would fiddle around with the camera. But now when I will go out without any cameras, just me, my board and the ocean, I will feel the moment, I will feel the soul of the ocean.
I had planned to just relax and do nothing for a couple of days, but I was already out and searching for a breakfast smoothie place at 7 in the morning. So my day started with driving to the beach about 5 minutes away from where I stay, just to dip my feet in the ocean before breakfast. While driving down to the beach I spotted a really nice looking smoothie place, Bali Bowls & Smoothies, I decided to stop there on my way back.
At the beach for the first time.
After dipping my feet in the ocean I headed to the smoothie place. Even if I had a good night sleep, I was still tired and my head still empty and trying to get used to the fact that I’m in Bali away from the cold winter in Finland. So I didn’t have any expectations, just decided to test out the place with an open mind. Oh boy, was that a good decision! I ordered the Pink Smoothie. Waited a couple of minutes and then they brought it to me, took a sip and wow, just amazing, so refreshing and healty. It’s funny how sometimes you just get a vibe of a place by just passing by and just have to go try it out. So happy that I found Bali Bowls & Smoothies and it will be one of the places where I will go many times while staying in Bali.
After the smoothie I headed back to the place where I’m staying to rest for a while. And the place, well my expectations where high and was kinda nervous about if it would be as good as it seemed to be from the pics. Well, just one word,YES, and even better then what I thought it would be. My room itself and the bathroom are just wonderfull and I’m so happy to be able to call it my home for a month. And the yard with the pool, well, is there anything you can say when you step out of your room and take 2 steps and your at the pool?
Well then off to exlpore, so quickly looked at a map and just headed out with the only plan to just drive around and familiarize myself with Canggu and the surrounding areas. Took off and drove all the way to a beach called Double Six Beach in Seminyak. Just had some coconut water to drink, not yet a fresh coconut, but just a quick coconut water from a small mimimart. While drinking I started to get hungry and started to wonder where I would have some lunch. I remebered there was a pizza place called Pizza House around where I live, so I decided to head back from Semniyak. Yes a pizza place, I will get local food, but for the first day I was just going to get a pizza and I will start to exlpore the local food places soon!
A mural I found in Canggu, I just had to stop and take a picture of it, love it and I also found a skate park KNKRT, I will dedicate one blog post to it later!
Well, y’all know how it goes, when you decide on something, the plan might change… WILL change when you are out exlporing.
While I had my morning smoothie, a guy and 2 girls suprisingly from Finland, sat at the next table from me. Talked with them and they recommended another pizza place called LaFabricca. So when driving back I saw the place they recommended and stopped to test it out and decided to leave Pizza House for another time. Walked in and got a chair and the menu. Looked at the menu, but no pizzas only smoothies and bowls! I asked the waitress, do you have pizza? She said, sorry, no pizza. At the same time I realized that the pizza place was next door, basically to places under the same roof. Oh well, I’ll get a something here as I was allready sitting at a table. Asked for coke, but no coke, which is a good thing if you think at the point that we are in a healty food place. So they recommended a fresh coconut while deciding what to order. I got the coconut, sooooo good and refreshing and ordered a smoothie too. The smoothie, again, so tasty. Now I had only been here for half a day and had found 2 great smoothie places. This one is called The Avocado Factory.
After a my refreshing coconut and smoothie I headed down to Echo Beach which was close by. Parked my motorbike as they call ‘em here (scooters), and walked down to the beach. Looked around and just as I was about to head back to my motorbike I saw something, stairs up from the beach which ended in a beach club looking place. And here’s when my plan changed again, I decided to skip the pizza and go there later and just get lunch here. The place is called LaBrisa Bali. Nice atmosphere and the grilled chicken I had tasted good.
Ok, time to get some surfing, or getting familiar with my board, so got back to my place, threw the board in the pool to do some paddling and just feel the board in the water. Well, what can I say, an amazing board, but it WILL be challenging to get going as a beginner with a short board, but still so happy of my board that Pinguino Surfboards custom made for me, thank you guys!
After messing around in the pool and doing some flips into the pool, I needed some rest.
Well, think my day ended here? Think again, it was only about 2 pm so I would still need some dinner.
After resting for a while I decided to go get the pizza, the place under the same roof with the smoothie place. Drove there and ordered a pizza. This is were it’s gets funny. Just as I received my pizza, some lady in another table complained to the waitress, I could not hear what she was saying, but I could tell she was not happy. After that she came over to me, and said mumbled something, I said “excuse me?” Her accen’t sounded like she was Australian, she started to complaing to me that it’s a rip off. I was like, these prices seem to be very reasanoble to me. Then she started to complain about the pizza itself, which I replied to that to me this pizza is really tasty. Shen then asked me where I come from, I said that I’m from Finland. She then said, for you this is probalby good as any pizza would be to you as you probably have no pizza in Finland and then she left.
Now look here lady, if you are reading this, we do have pizzas in Finland and lady and this pizza from LaFabbrica is really tasty just as a pizza is supposed to be. Thank you LaFabbrica for a good pizza, not everyone seems to know what a pizza is supposed to be! I will be back for more pizza!
I also got to experience a small traffic jam on my way back, a small road where cars are not supposed to drive as it’s so narrow, well ofcourse cars drive there too, and then we have cars from both way, and it’s too narrow for them to pass each other…
Hope you enjoyed reading about my first day in Bali. Also read the story from my flight over here when Qatar Airways made me feel like a king!
Today I had lunch at a great burger place in Helsinki, Naughty BRGR, and talked with the waitress about my trip. I told her that she can follow it here on my blog. She then told me that she would love to follow my blog as it gives her a view of my life and my trip which helpes her to keep smiling whilie she is working TWO jobs to get by. She got my total respect and this kind of feedback inspires me to keep on going with my blog. Thank you for the feedback and a delicious burger! 🙂
I planned to write about my day, but her feedback inspired to write some thoughts about life itself, so here goes:
My trip is closing in on me like a storm, but instead of hiding from the storm I pull out my surfboard and ride the storm while it covers ground fast as lightning. The feeling of beeing able to ride the lightning is like freeing your mind and soul, I can feel the wind in my face while the storm carries me towards my dream.
There is always a way to see good in even a scary situation, most will just hide or run when a storm is coming, my idea is to stand in front of the storm, confront it and ride it out, this way you might end up living and finding the meaning of life.
What is life and what is the meaning of life? That’s the eternal question of mankind, we all ponder what is the true meaning of life? Does there have to be a true meaning of life? What about if we just take it back to basics and just feel the moment, really feel the sun on our skin, feel the wind in our face, really inhale the smell of the moment?
In my opionion we are not really living before we are able to to that and really feel everything to the last cell of our body.
How can we achieve this? The first thing to do is to be in the moment you are in at any given time, not rushing towards the future not worrying about the past, but just inhaling the moment with everything it has to offer, from feeling the ground under your feet to seeing the world around you.
This also applies while being with your friends, kids, pets. Put your cellphones away, stop doing something else, concentrate on being in the moment, really be there when your see your friends or play with your kids! Really be in the moment when your are throwing the ball to your dog.
I’m happy that you are reading my thoughts and my blog, but please, don’t let it take time away from your loved ones.
Just breathe and love life.
My checklist for my surfing trip and pilgrimage to Bali is starting to look very good!
1. I’m so happy that the place were my dog Ace is staying while I’m on my trip is like a second home for him, he can be a rascal and run around at the house while the family take care of him and gives him lots of love.
2. The location in Bali is an AirBnB place which I found, lovely couple who even have 2 dogs which will help me a lot when I’m away from my own dog. The place is called Luxry River Room #2 Canggu. I will do a more in depth introduction of the place when I get there.
The second place, the mystery island, I’ll still keep it a secret but what I can say it is in Indonesia and it’s west from Bali. The island is small, about 2 km in diameter and has lots of surf breaks close by. The island is a part of some bigger islands but this particlar island is like having your private island in paradise, no crowded tourist beaches, no hassle, just relaxation, waves, surfing, good food and sun. Just as the place in Bali, I’ll will make tour of the island when I get there. For now here are 2 more shots from the island.
3. Got the plane tickets ready and now I just have to wait for my departure day!
4. I have been getting back in shape and starting to feel good. A little bit tired as my body have gotten some tough workouts, so for this last week I will just play around and balance with my Indo Board and do one or two easier workouts at the gym and just REST!
5. I still need to get some kind of a selfie-stick for recording my videos and some floatation thingies for my GoPro so that I won’t have to dive it from the bottom of the ocean, as I have once done when the handle broke while doing a flip into the ocean from a pier a couple of years ago. And tomorrow I’m fixin’ to go get the bag for my surfboard.
6. My surfboard, The surfboard, which the Pinguino Surfboard dudes custom made for me is on it’s way to me. I can’t wait as the board will have a graphic on it which basically tells the story of the hell I went throught and survived, drawn by a good friend of my who is crazy talented. I will give you some sneak peeks of the board when I get it, but you will have to wait for the reveal, which I will do the 21st January from Bali.
Now just need to get some rest and some quality time with my buddy Ace who is helping me write this post as you can see :
- Get a good place for my dog to stay while I’m a way – check
- Get a good location and place to stay for my adventure – check
- Get airplane tickets – check
- Get physically ready for some waves – check
- Get all the gear ready – work in progress
- Get my own surfboard – check (waiting for delivery)
Also check out my video about starting surfing with a shortboard:
Will I be able to get going with a shortboard as I am a beginner in surfing? Check my thoughts about it on the video and please share your opionion about it.
Also go to my youtube channel to subscribe to make sure you will get all the updates from my challenge! 🙂